How to Spot Dog Fighters & “Feeder” Shoppers—And Keep Animals Safe

Dog fighting is an underground blood sport that preys on the most vulnerable animals. To train fighting dogs, handlers often use small “bait” animals—puppies, kittens, rabbits and timid dogs—to provoke aggression. Many of these bait animals are stolen family pets or animals obtained from shelters and “free to a good home” ads. Their mouths may be taped shut or their teeth broken so they cannot defend themselves, and the survivors may even be given to the winning dog as a reward. Beyond the horror of dog fighting, some individuals seek out kittens or puppies to feed live to large snakes, a cruel practice that is illegal in many jurisdictions and unnecessary for proper reptile husbandry. For a deeper look at bait animals and dog fighting equipment, see the ASPCA’s closer look at dogfighting.

The problem (and why scammers target you)

People who harm animals rarely advertise their true intentions. They trawl social media and classified ads for phrases like “free to good home”, scan shelter listings and watch for hurried re‑homing posts. Once they find a vulnerable animal, they move fast, offer cash in hand and resist any screening. The Baytown Humane Society warns that dishonest people responding to free pet ads often appear charming and knowledgeable; they may bring children to appear as a loving family and know the right answers to your questions. Since free pets have no perceived value, abusers treat them as disposable tools: to train fighting dogs, sell to research, breed for profit or feed to exotics. Charging a reasonable fee and conducting basic screening deters those who cannot afford or do not intend to provide proper care. Read more in the Baytown Humane Society’s article on the tragedy of “Free to a Good Home” pets.

Tricks used by dogfighters and “feeder” shoppers

Dog fighters and others seeking animals for cruel purposes are adept at deception. In addition to the red flags listed below, be aware of these specific tactics:

• Using proxies to collect animals. Investigators have documented cases where abusers send decoy people—sweet‑sounding girlfriends, wives or other family members—to pick up pets so the real buyer stays hidden. They may even pay neighbours or children to act as runners. If you don’t verify the adopter’s identity, you may never know who actually took the animal.
• Posing as a loving family. Scammers bring children or elderly relatives, arrive in a nice car and have a rehearsed story about why they want the animal. They know the right answers about vaccinations and food.
• Rushing the exchange. They offer immediate pickup, extra money or gifts and insist on meeting in parking lots or your home so you feel pressured to hand over the animal.
• Targeting vulnerable animals. They specifically request very young kittens or puppies, small breeds, timid seniors or injured animals that cannot defend themselves.
• Avoiding traceability. They refuse to show ID, provide landlord information or share vet references. If you insist on a contract, they ask to sign later or claim they forgot their licence.
• Seeking multiple animals. They ask for two or more animals at once or say they have friends who also want a “free” pet.
• Zero curiosity about the animal. Legitimate adopters ask about temperament, diet and medical needs. Bad actors focus on price, age and pickup logistics.
• Requesting intact animals. They want breeding rights or “uncut” males and offer extra money to avoid spay/neuter or microchip requirements.

Red flags during inquiries (DMs, emails, phone)

• Refuses to complete your application, share ID or landlord info “for privacy.”
• Insists on meeting off‑site in a parking lot, demands immediate pickup or offers a cash surcharge to skip contracts.
• Wants multiple animals, the smallest animals or any “free” animals without screening.
• Mentions owning large constrictor snakes and feeding live mammals—responsible reptile keepers use appropriate feeder species and never feed cats or dogs.

On‑site cues (meet‑and‑greets, home checks)

If you conduct a home check and see equipment associated with dog fighting, end the visit immediately. Investigators note that training yards often contain treadmills, spring‑poles, flirt poles and heavy chains used to condition fighting dogs. Look for multiple dogs with facial scars or poorly healed wounds, isolated on short tethers or kept on heavy chains. Patches of fur, bones or decomposed animals may indicate the use of live bait. There will be no safe containment for your animal—no bedding, no food bowls and no plan for quarantine.

Rock‑solid policies rescues and re‑homers should implement

Think of these steps as seatbelts for every placement. Good adopters will respect them; bad actors will walk away.

• Never same‑day adoptions. Require a cooling‑off period so there’s time for references and background checks.
• Standard application and ID check. Collect a government‑issued ID and keep it secure. Ask for proof of residence and landlord or HOA approval.
• Vet and personal references. Call at least one veterinarian (or ask for a plan to establish one) and two personal references.
• Mandatory spay/neuter and microchip. Alter animals prior to placement or require a deposit with a firm deadline. Register the microchip to both adopter and rescue.
• Adoption fee. Charging a reasonable fee—sliding scale is fine—creates perceived value and deters abusers. Fee‑waived placements are fine only with full screening and a strong contract.
• Controlled meeting locations. Meet at your shelter, a veterinary clinic or a designated safe exchange area; never at your private home.
• No public “free to good home” posts. Use structured re‑homing platforms or rescue networks where you can control screening and confidentiality.
• Home check—virtual or in‑person. Verify secure fencing, living spaces and escape risks.
• Ironclad contract. Prohibit transfer or sale, require return to your rescue if the placement fails, forbid breeding and explicitly ban using the animal as bait or live prey. Keep the rescue as a secondary contact on the microchip.

Interview prompts that surface risk

Use open‑ended questions to gauge a prospective adopter’s preparedness and intent:

• “Walk me through a typical weekday for you and this animal.”
• “What’s your plan for medical care in the first 60 days?”
• “Who’s your veterinarian, or who will you use?”
• “Have you had reptiles or other predatory pets? What do they eat?”
• “Are you comfortable with spay/neuter, microchip and a home check?”

Hard stops: any mention of using a dog or cat as prey, interest in “testing” an animal’s aggression, refusal of ID/landlord/vet checks or visible dog‑fighting equipment. If you encounter these, end the interaction, document everything and report it to authorities.

Scripts for saying No (polite but final)

• Cruelty risk: “Our policy forbids placing any animal where live‑feeding of mammals occurs or where there’s equipment or injuries consistent with fighting. We won’t proceed.”
• Won’t share ID or rushing: “We only place animals after ID, references and a home check. That’s not optional.”
• Wants intact animal: “All placements are spayed/neutered and microchipped. If that’s a problem, this isn’t a fit.”

Then stop engaging. Save messages, names, numbers and vehicle details if safely obtained.

Reporting & documentation (don’t confront—report)

Active or suspected dog fighting is a crime. Call local law enforcement or animal control immediately. You can also report tips to the Humane Society of the United States at 1‑877‑TIP‑HSUS (1‑877‑847‑4787). For in‑progress crimes, dial 911. For general cruelty or neglect, follow your local reporting protocol; the ASPCA offers a concise guide on recognizing and reporting cruelty, and the PETA Cruelty hotline can assist if local authorities are unresponsive. When reporting, include the date and time, all contact information, what was said, addresses or vehicle plates, and any photos or witness statements. Keep copies of applications and contracts.

For individual pet owners re‑homing a dog or cat

If you must re‑home your own pet, you can still protect them:

• Use an application and require ID, address, landlord permission and vet references.
• Charge a reasonable re‑homing fee and sign a simple contract with no‑transfer and return‑to‑you clauses. Fee‑waived re‑homing is fine only if you screen thoroughly and are fully satisfied.
• Meet at safe, public locations or a veterinary clinic; never hand over your animal at home.
• Microchip the animal in your name first; transfer ownership only after a successful trial period.

A quick detector for dog‑fighting paraphernalia & injuries

Use this mental checklist when meeting a prospective adopter or visiting their home:

• Gear: breaking sticks, spring‑poles, treadmills with harness points and multiple heavy chains.
• Dogs: facial or forelimb scars, swollen faces, mangled ears, heavy chains and short tethers.
• Evidence of bait: patches of fur, bones or decomposed bodies on the property.

If you see these signs together, leave and report.

Ethical note about reptiles

Most reptile keepers are conscientious; responsible husbandry uses appropriate feeder species such as frozen‑thawed rodents. Using cats, dogs or other companion animals as “feeders” is cruel, unnecessary and illegal in many jurisdictions. Ethical keepers also avoid feeding live mammals because of the risk of injury to their reptiles and because unnecessary suffering has no place in animal care.

Handy tools (affiliate links)

Implementation checklist (print and stick on clipboards)

• Application completed, photo ID verified, proof of residence checked.
• Landlord/HOA approval confirmed (if renting/HOA).
• Vet and personal references contacted.
• Home check (virtual or in‑person) completed.
• Spay/neuter and microchip terms agreed (or already done).
• Contract signed: no transfer/sale; return‑to‑rescue; no breeding; no prey/bait use.
• Adoption fee collected; receipt issued.
• Post‑placement check‑ins scheduled (24–72 hrs, then 2–4 weeks).
• Red flags? Stop. Document and report as needed (HSUS tip line and local authorities).

Help Us Protect Pets Back to Top

Sources and further reading

Sources & further reading

For additional context on dog fighting, bait animals and reporting cruelty, explore these trusted resources:

• ASPCA — A closer look at dogfighting
• Michigan State University Animal Legal & Historical Center — Detailed discussion of dog fighting
• Wikipedia — Dog fighting (bait animals)
• Baytown Humane Society — Tragedy of “Free to a Good Home” pets
• ASPCA — Recognizing & reporting animal abuse
• Humane Society of the United States — Dogfighting
• National Link Coalition — Resources on reporting and cross‑reporting cruelty
• Spectrum News — Free animals on social media at high risk of becoming bait animals

National and federal reporting section

National and federal reporting

In addition to contacting local authorities, several national organisations and federal agencies accept reports of animal fighting and cruelty:

• Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) Dog Fighting Hotline: Call 1‑877‑TIP‑HSUS (1‑877‑847‑4787) any time to anonymously report suspected dogfighting activity. The hotline is operated by HSUS and offers rewards for information leading to conviction.
• USDA Office of Inspector General (OIG) Hotline: The USDA OIG investigates animal fighting crimes and other violations of federal animal welfare laws. Submit a complaint online or call the OIG hotline if you suspect animal fighting.
• FBI Tip Line: The FBI works with local, state and federal partners to investigate animal cruelty and dogfighting cases. Submit a tip at tips.fbi.gov or call 1‑800‑CALL‑FBI (1‑800‑225‑5324).
• PETA Cruelty Hotline: If an animal is in imminent danger and local authorities do not respond, call PETA at 757‑622‑7382 for guidance.
• ASPCA Cruelty Reporting: The ASPCA provides an online guide to reporting abuse and can direct you to local authorities.

Remember: if an animal’s life is in immediate danger, call 911 right away.

State-by-state reporting section

State-by-state reporting

There is no national or statewide clearinghouse for animal abuse reports【490222629815868†L30-L46】. Animal cruelty is addressed at the local level by police, sheriffs, animal control and humane societies. Use the drop‑down menu below to jump to your state and learn how to report suspected dog fighting and cruelty in your area.

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